![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:25 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
As some of you know I acquired a 1999 Mustang Cobra some two months ago. Quite a step up from my beloved Maxima that had an untimely demise, even though I loved it so.
I'm trying to figure out what and if I should upgrade on the car.
I ordered a short throw shifter from MGW the other day. Contemplating adding HID's but I can't find a HID housing that doesn't stick out like a sore thumb on the car. I might just get better bulbs for the time being.
Is there anything else that is a "small" upgrade that I should look into? I'm currently looking more towards making it feel how I want rather than make it necessarily faster...even though that works as well.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:29 |
|
Please do not buy the crappy blue/white H4 bulbs to "look" HID. Other than that, since it is all up to your taste, it would be hard to really give advice. One of the biggest upgrades on most of those cars was just buying good tires. Beyond that, it's all pretty spendy upgrades.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:29 |
|
Full intake kit. Sounds nicer bit o extra torque...is good ya?
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:31 |
|
I have snows on it atm. Will get a nice set of summers once that comes around. I was actually looking at buying bulbs similar to those. Why the hate. I had them on my maxima and I didn't have any issue.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:33 |
|
Tires and brake pads.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:33 |
|
I have heard very conflicting reports lately discussing if intake kits actually do anything or not. It did sound a lot better when I did it on the Maxima but it also hated hot days ever since I had done it. I'm not certain I want to make that sacrifice again. It already sounds pretty good.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:34 |
|
Both will be done in the summer. Have any experience with Hawk pads?
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:34 |
|
They look cheap, don't help with anything, and generally cause other drivers headaches because they don't focus properly. They can also cause electrical issues. There is a reason DOT approved lights are the way they are. Changing the spectrum just makes people feel special and annoys other drivers.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:34 |
|
Front sway bar! $190 but I'd suggest getting some end-links for peace of mind as your factory links might not last long. Noticeable difference in handling, it'll give the front some more bite, or at least help it rotate faster than stock. Or replace your rear sway bar with one from a V6 Stang, same effect, smaller budget!
That or long-tube headers!
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:35 |
|
Not personally but I've heard good things
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:37 |
|
Lots of dust, lots.
They also squeal a bit unless you really get on the brakes. That said, they grip like no other.
I have three friends who autocross and track their DD's with Hawk pads, they always return with gunmetal-brown wheels.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:39 |
|
I was thinking about this. I would really like to eliminate some body roll but from what I have heard a front sway bar makes this car understeer more than it already does. Might do a rear swaybar. Have you heard anything to the contrary with this car?
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:43 |
|
Nice choice in cars, a buddy of mine got a 1999 Mustang GT back in May. The previous owner put a K&N cone filter and painted the taillights. he's undone the paint mods, and put 2001+ light housing up front.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 10:46 |
|
I've heard and felt quite the opposite. I have a stock NB Miata but I drove my friend's NB with nothing but a huge front bar, very noticeable difference. I felt like the nose wasn't leaning over when diving through corners, it gave me more confidence than my own car ever did. His brother tracks a 4th-gen F-body and went down the same road with no regrets. My roommate has a V6 New Edge with a Terminator blower, full Maximum Motorsports suspension parts galore, and a really huge rear sway with a V6 front bar. He's going to downgrade the rear and upgrade the front because it's under-steering way too much at autocrosses.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:00 |
|
Can't go wrong with upgrading suspension bushings. Not only could the fifteen year old rubber bits use some love, I'm sure, but it's relatively cheap.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:01 |
|
That's a good looking car you've got there. I would suggest keeping the mods to a minimum. Obviously there are a lot of modifications available for the car and it's becoming more and more rare to see one that hasn't been modified excessively. I think there's a lot of value (perceived and actual) to a Mustang from that era that remains stock. To each his own.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:16 |
|
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:17 |
|
WWMRD
What would Memphis Raines Do? Besides steal the car. I'd go for exhaust if you haven't already. Makes all Mustangs better.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:32 |
|
I see really blue headlights and assume its a douche and its confirmed when its some prelude with aftermarket bulbs.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:34 |
|
Actually the car I bought already had those haha
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:35 |
|
SUB FRAME CONNECTORS!!!
Not sure how the cobras differ with braces and such but a k member brace for the stock k member might be a worthy addition. Also not sure if a strut brace will do much for these cars I tend to think they will since if its anything like a fox the strut towers look rather weak. Also I got mine at a swap meet $35 for a ford motorsports one that was never installed.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:43 |
|
I'd say keep the visual mods to a minimum and put everything into the drive train/ suspension first then move onto the engine.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:48 |
|
I would skip the HIDs ans just go for brighter bulbs but thats just me.
If it were my car, I would do intake and exhaust first. I've always loved SN95 Cobras so I'm quite jealous.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 11:55 |
|
I'll give my 2 cents here. I've had several Fox Body Mustangs over the years. Just a cold air intake will make no difference in actual performance on a stock motor. It's louder so it sounds faster but really they are a waste of money unless your motor is fully built and needs more air than can flow through the stock box. If you put fat sway bars on, the ride will be harsh. Good choice on the short shifter, maybe a cat back exhaust in the future but it will add cabin rumble which gets old on a DD. Remember anything you do to make it perform better will have a trade off. It's a fine car the way it sits, Enjoy it.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 12:06 |
|
Step 1: Subframe connectors
Step 2: Decide what you want from the car. I'm gonna guess since it's replacing a Nissan, the car's main purpose will be getting your ass to and from places to include your job. Laying it up for a week or 2 is out of the question as is converting it to an all out racer — drag, road course, or otherwise.
That said, it never hurts to upgrade when the opportunity presents itself. Sway bar end links need replacing? Upgrade.
Bent control arm? Upgrade.
You get the idea.
Me? With a DD? I'd do the connectors, throw some full length headers and exhaust on it. Better control arms out back. Springs........If I could find something that mimicked the characteristics of the stockers whilst dropping it an inch or so I'd be on it.
All these projects can be done over a weekend. Do one per weekend. If you have the want to put some type of forced induction on it, you may want to wait until you find a reliable beater to give you time to keep the car laid up or consider public transportation while it's being done.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 12:27 |
|
To modify or not to modify. Is that really a question? Whether 'tis normal for money to suffer the shots and losses of outrageous expense, Or to leave stock and save the troubles, and never cause any of them? To drive; To fix; Always more; and by a fix to say we end the back-ache with new struts or shocks (it might take an hour or two), there's always obstructions needing to be missed. To drive, to fix; to fix: perchance to improve, ay there's the lugs; For with unlimited wealth what track days may come when we install the lowering coils, to justify the cost; there's the danger of ending this car's life, if it were to bear the whips and scorns of added power, but losing's wrong, even with hammer drops timely, the pangs of opponents lights, the law's arrival, the begging of green lights and the revs that this Ford Mustang makes, why you yourself bought the car and replaced the maxima? The labor will be fair, to grunt and sweat and drink bud light, but will the work show its worth, the undiscovered potential from fuel burned, to stock no returns, puzzling the wife, and make us rather wonder what we're doing, and only do what we know of? Thus working makes mechanics of us all, and thus our tools chrome shows resolution but slicked o'er with Royal Purple race oil, it entails great pride and moments, with this regard the doubts turn away and on to the next project-Sway bars now! This fair Cobra! ninth in thy nineties. Be all the miles remembered.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 12:43 |
|
That is the complete opposite of how sway bars/suspension tuning work... if you stiffen up the front it goes more into understeer, stiffen up the rear to coerce more oversteer.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 12:48 |
|
Code 4.11
![]() 12/28/2013 at 12:48 |
|
Code 4.11
![]() 12/28/2013 at 13:03 |
|
If your cobra runs on premium, then I don't think an intake with a tune will do much good. I'd skip it. I'm not sure how 4vs compare to 3vs but 4.6's in general have decent airflow up until you boost so don't throw money at TBs, intake and headers.
99 cobra's, I'm pretty sure, had the italian cast Teksid block so you've got the underpinnings for a great supercharger setup.
![]() 12/28/2013 at 13:14 |
|
Before doing anything on the '99-'04 Cobra you really need to upgrade the rear suspension. The bushings are too soft and the differential on the '99/'01 is missing a crucial brace that Ford later installed on the Terminators. Also, some better shocks and struts will transform the car. I have adjustable Konis on my SN95 and absolutely love them, but Bilsteins are great as well. Subframe connectors are also a good upgrade that can stiffen the chassis up.
![]() 12/29/2013 at 00:40 |
|
Good tires! Then a supercharger.
![]() 12/30/2013 at 20:18 |
|
Im with daender on the Hawk pads, I have run the HPS pads for a few years now and they are great, the dust is not as bad as previously mentioned for me, but the low speed & low pedal pressure squeaks certainly are. Otherwise they have been great.
![]() 12/30/2013 at 20:22 |
|
Those are HID's usually mounted in a non HID housing.
![]() 01/01/2014 at 12:20 |
|
Since you are already getting a short throw shifter, i would recommend a nice shift knob. I know it is an accoutrement, but when you are using the shifter all the time, it is nice to have good knob connected to it.
![]() 01/12/2014 at 11:51 |
|
I'll start with most handling improvement to least for Mustangs.
Start with Tires, then modify the suspension to your liking. A good set of UHP all season or Max Summers will really make a difference.
Go with an adjustable set of sway bars. Easy to fine tune oversteer and understeer. Really gets rid of the body roll with little NVH increase.
If you really want to drop some money, get some Koni Yellows. They should be going on sale pretty soon. You can save a nice chunk of change on them through Tire Rack when they go on sale.
Control arms are a big thing. If you are having wheel hop issues replace the upper and lowers.
Upper strut brace is not that useful. It was the first thing I put on my car ('11 V6) and it was mostly a placebo effect.